amarchinthevines

Learning about wine, vines and vignerons whilst living in the Languedoc


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A walk in the vines

(En français)

The Languedoc Roussillon region was struck by huge storms on November 28th. Lightning and thunder which lasted almost a whole day, torrential rain all day (over 210mm at Bédarieux), hail for half an hour, winds well over 100kph. Even local people were surprised by the storm. There are some scary pictures on Midi Libre.

Outside our door in Margon

Outside our door in Margon

Puimisson, the stream in the background reached the height of the tree branches

Puimisson, the stream in the background reached the height of the tree branches

 

Jeff pointing to debris from the stream in the tree branches

Jeff pointing to debris from the stream in the tree branches

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A walk around Margon, our home village, 3 days later showed that many vineyards had been damaged. At this time of the year the vines themselves are not so vulnerable of course, there are no grapes left on there. However, the soils themselves were damaged in many places by erosion.

Water standing in the vines

2. Water standing in the vines

Clay (argile) run off on the road

1. Clay (argile) run off on the road

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Much of our area has clay soils which are not the easiest to drain. However, many modern agricultural practices exacerbate this problem. Using heavy machinery such as tractors, harvesting machines and large sprayers means that the soils become compacted and, therefore, even more impermeable (photo 2). Inappropriate use of herbicides and weed killers to get rid of grass and other plants means that the soil has nothing to bind it together and, consequently, heavy rain will cause erosion as we see in photo 1. Overploughing will combine both problems.

I remember when I first visited French vineyards 30 years ago that most were like this. Times have changed though and more artisanal, more environmentally aware viticulturists have realised that the soil has to be treated with respect. In a previous post I mentioned that the soil experts Claude and Anne Bourguignon gave a talk recently which I attended. They explained that the soil is what gives a crucial 6% of the vine’s needs which can make all the difference in terms of flavour and quality. Vine roots need to reach down into the soil to extract the water and minerals which they require to grow and to fruit. They confirmed that the best practice is what many winemakers have been doing in recent years. Allowing grass and other plants to grow amongst the vines brings many benefits:

  • binding the soil, making it stronger and less prone to erosion
  • stronger soil makes it easier to withstand machinery
  • competition for nutrients drives the vine roots deeper where more of the species which benefit the plants live
  • retaining moisture in summer which can also be used by the vines
  • providing shelter to other wildlife which eat the insects that damage vines and grapes
Covered vineyard with no sign of erosion

Covered vineyard with no sign of erosion

Ruts developing between vines

Ruts developing between vines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The photos above show how two parcels of vines just metres apart responded to the storms. The difference is obvious.

Vines with shallow roots do not access the deeper minerals and ecosystem. The roots also overheat being nearer to the surface and this can mean that they shut down some of their work and grapes will not ripen so well or evenly.

Yet there are vignerons in the area who have installed or are installing irrigation. This can only compound the problem in a region where there are occasional droughts but not on the scale of Australia for example.

Jeff Coutelou reported to me that there had been no erosion in his vines unlike those of some of his neighbours, the reason may be seen in the photos below.

A stark contrast between the Mas Coutelou vineyard and that of his neighbour

A stark contrast between the Mas Coutelou vineyard and that of his neighbour

Irrigation pipes run along the vines. Look closely at the channel which has been cut into the soil by the rain.

Irrigation pipes run along the vines. Look closely at the channel which has been cut into the soil by the rain.

Water flowing off vineyards which have had the grass removed

Water flowing off vineyards which have had the grass removed

 

 

The run off from the vines has caused a new stream and channels

The run off from the vines has caused a new stream and channels

 

 

 

Meanwhile Jeff's vines have drained and there is no damage to soil below

Meanwhile Jeff’s vines have drained and there is no damage to soil below

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vine roots washed into the new stream next to the neighbours' land

Vine roots washed into the new stream next to the neighbours’ land

 

 

 

 

 

Biodiversity - analysis showed over 30 types of grass in one square metre of Jeff's vineyard.

Biodiversity – analysis showed over 30 types of grass in one square metre of Jeff’s vineyard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One sad casualty of the storms was the tree with a bat shelter installed by Jeff. Bats are good friend to vines as they eat many insects which might damage them or their grapes. Encouraging them and other friendly wildife, such as wagtails and hoopoes, helps to keep the grapes in good health. Unfortunately the tree, which was dead, was uprooted and so a new bat home will be established soon.

Bat shelter

Bat shelter

And finally how to control that grass and plant life? Ploughing or working the soil is needed at times but there are some novel alternatives. At Mas Gabriel a local farmer brings his sheep into the vineyard at this time of year. And then, as I was driving to Cabrieres the other day I came across this.

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Being in the vines is always interesting!

 


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Remembrance

Margon commemorated the fallen like every village in France and the UK. A minute’s silence was followed by a procession to the memorial in the cemetery where the Mayor spoke and the children of the village primary school read out the names of those from Margon who died in World War 1. Ten men from a tiny village including two brothers and the Count of Margon.

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A trip to the Camargue (et une apologie)

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Short post about a day in the Camargue region on the Out And About page.

 

Mes excuses aux lecteurs français. Normallement Catherine, la soeur de Jeff qui habite en Guadeloupe, elle lit et corrige mes traductions en français. Elle est très gentille et elle doit avoir beaucoup de patience!! Elle est actuellement sans téléphone et sans internet et elle l’a été ainsi pendant les 2 dernières semaines en Guadeloupe, qui est à mi saison des ouragans. Heureusement, elle et sa famille sont bien mais ‘Castets II’ en français a été retardée. Toutes mes excuses, je l’espère que vous le compreniez.

 

A brief apology to French readers. Jeff’s sister in Guadeloupe proof reads and corrects my French translations of posts. She is currently without telephone and internet and has been for the last 2 weeks on Guadeloupe, which is mid hurricane season. Happily she and her family are well but Castets II in French has been delayed. Apologies, I hope you understand.

 


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Four nights in Paris

I seem to be developing a link between wines and songs. I am cheating a little, as 10CC sang about One Night In Paris on their album The Original Soundtrack.

I digress. As well as being mad about wines I am a passionate horse racing fan, a turfiste. Following my retirement it is now possible for me to attend race meetings I have always longed to visit. Top of the list was a trip to Paris to the Arc De Triomphe race meeting at Longchamp. So we booked 4 nights in Paris for a little sightseeing and an art gallery as well as the races on Saturday and Sunday. The racing was excellent (and, happily, profitable), highlighted by the victory of Treve in the big race following up her success in 2013.

Treve coming back after her victory

Treve coming back after her victory

We stayed in the 11e arrondissement which was a new area to me and it proved to be upcoming and trendy  with a buzzy café and restaurant culture. The Canal St Martin for example was a pleasant surprise with Parisians enjoying the warm evening looking over the water.

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We ate at a number of good restaurants, especially those based around wine. The trend of wine bars serving excellent food is one I love. Paying around 7€ for corkage it means that good wines are affordable to accompany the food rather than the usual restaurant mark ups. Two strong wine bar/ restaurant recommendations:

Le Verrre Volé beside the Canal was excellent. They had sold out of Coutelou wines (as had everyone in Paris!) and we wanted to drink something non Languedoc in any case. The natural wine movement is strong in Beaujolais so I chose Jean Paul Thévenet’s Morgon 2012 which was excellent. I don’t write good tasting notes so I won’t start here but well worth a try, available in UK here

La Cave De L’Insolite was just around the corner from our apart-hotel and was a chance discovery in some ways as it was one of the few places open on Sunday evening. I loved this place and would return in a heartbeat. It soon filled up and had a warm, welcoming and was far more trendy than I am! The food was excellent, seriously good. We drank a white wine to accompany perfectly cooked pollock. It was Clos Des Grillons Cotes Du Rhone Blanc 2013, organic and very good. Interesting to read in Midi Libre that the vigneron Nicolas Renaud is a History teacher, as I was for 33 years. How could he not produce good wine. If you are in the area go to La Cave De L’Insolite for a meal, it’s a terrific place.

On Monday we walked around the Marais, Ile De La Cité and central Paris before lunch at Glou in the Marais. A very good menu fixe included a vegetable main course so I was happy to go there and it was very good too. To accompany we chose another of the Beaujolais natural wine big four producers, Guy Breton and his wine, Le P’tit Max. This was delicious too, perhaps less typically Beaujolais than the Thévenet but a memorable wine. I can’t find an English merchant for Breton or Grillons sadly but there is information about Breton on this well known US website

The other welcome visit was to Philippe Cuq owner of Le Lieu Du Vin on Avenue Gambetta next to Pere Lachaise cemetery. A great wine shop with a tremendous range including Mas Coutelou of course. What a friendly man Philippe is and if I hadn’t been travelling by plane I’d have been buying too many bottles for my credit card. One of his recommendations was a Vin De Pays du Puy De Dome called Badoulin from Stéphan Elziere, the only organic producer in Cantal apparently. I was unaware of any wine producers in Cantal! It was an unusual but inspired suggestion by Philippe as I asked for a wine to drink with light food back in our hotel. I think it is Gamay (again – the weekend was a true Gamay celebration) and it was full and spicy, a real surprise. No English links here but an article from Le Figaro on Philippe showing his Classe, and Elziere

So Group 1 racing, top food and wine and some lovely people, it all left me with a smile on my face almost as wide as:

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Ribbons smiling at me before finishing an excellent 2nd in the Prix De L’Opéra

 

 


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Superb photographs

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Gaylord Burguiere posts some wonderful photographs on Facebook. He works in the St Chinian area of the Languedoc and his photographs have long been a highlight of the internet for me. This one is called, “Le soleil est de retour pour plus de sérénité pendant les vendanges.” (The sunshine has returned to bring more calm during the harvest) a reflection of the recent storms I described in my last post.

To find more of his photographs go to Gaylord’s timeline on Facebook.

 


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London Cru via Puimisson

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The grapes are loaded into a lorry fitted with equipment to keep them chilled at 8C for the journey to London

Mas Coutelou sells its wines in the UK through Roberson Wines in London, web address at the bottom of this post. Robersons have introduced a new initiative in the last couple of years called London Cru involving them buying grapes from producers, including Jeff, and transporting them back to London to be made into wine. Gavin Monery is making the wines, the first of which have been released this week. Gavin said this on Jamie Goode’s Wine Anorak blog, “We work the Cab Sauv because the vigneron is Jeff Coutelou, one of the most talented growers I’ve met.”

Gavin Monery loading grapes chez Coutelou

Preparing the grapes chez Coutelou ready for transport

Jeff provides some Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. The review by Jamie Goode quoted below explains their provenance. The first London Cru vintage coincides with one of the Languedoc Roussillon’s very best so the quality of grapes which went to London was very high. This year’s are of equally good quality though in smaller quantity due to the long drought in the area in 2014.

The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, freshly picked

The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, freshly picked

Jamie’s review of the London Crus are available here but this is the review of the Cabernet Sauvignon.  Jamie’s is one of the internet’s most respected wine blogs and winner of the best overall wine blog at The Wine Blog Awards.

SW6 Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Jeff Coutelou supplies this, and he was previously giving these excellent grapes to the coop because he just wanted to make wine from local varieties. Lovely pure, sweet blackcurrant fruit nose with some blackcurrant leaf. So classic and expressive. The palate is beautifully balanced with nice structure and classic Cabernet characters. A lovely wine with real potential. 91/100

 

Mas Coutelou at Roberson Wines