My vines are thriving after a very warm Spring (until the last couple of weeks) though Jeff Coutelou played a part from a distance.
One of the photos on a previous post prompted Jeff to message me to say that he could see mildew developing. If you look at the developing grapes you can see a white filament. I acted quickly to get some of the ‘Bordeaux mix’ with sulphur and copper to spray them and this helped to stave off the disease in the main though the dreaded brown, dried patches did appear in the days after Jeff’s message. I removed the affected parts of the leaves too and, touchwood, all has gone well since even though we have had a much more humid period of weather. So, as ever, thank you Jeff.
The bordeaux mix left some little dark brown spots on the leaves which wash off in the rain but you might notice in the photos. I don’t want to add too much of the spray as copper is damaging for the soil and the life within it. The soil is undoubtedly too rich for vines really as they are developing lots of leaves which I don’t really want as yet, I’d rather they concentrated on strengthening and thickening. I am removing most of the new growth and buds to achieve that. The bunch on the Regent vine is developing, opening up and starting to resemble grapes more. The Regent is ungrafted and I wonder if that is why it is developing quicker than the grafted Bacchus vine. It’s been interesting to watch them and that was the main purpose of acquiring the vines so job done.
To bottles and wines. We spent a lovely week in Ireland and I can confirm that Guinness is so much better there than anywhere else! Of the wines tried there a couple of bottles stood out, both organic but not natural. The nicest bottle of Quincy that I can remember was Domaine Mardon Cuvée St. Edme 2022, full of flavour, good acidity and a Sauvignon Blanc of real depth. Camin Larredya La Part Davane 2022 was a really enjoyable Jurancon, one of my favourite sources of white wine. The classic citrus notes and white fruit with the barest hint of sweetness, excellent. The wine is fruity and rich yet fresh with a distinct lime note.
My other favourite white wines both came from Mountain People, produced in Wales by David Morris which I described in my article on a tasting in Edinburgh. His Bacchus wine, Gwin Pobl Y Mynnd Parva 23 was lovely. I like Bacchus as a grape, hence my choice of vine above. It can, however, be a bit blousy and flowery but David has made a refreshing wine with lovely fruit but always dry and clean. Even better was the wine I so loved at that tasting, his Chardonnay TAM 2023. The label on this bottle was different to the one at Edinburgh but the wine is the same. I am not a great fan of oak in wine flavours but David masters it here with the barrels certainly noticeable but underlying the clean white fruit, almost fino like in some ways but certainly like a top Jura Chardonnay.
I enjoy different ways of tasting wines and comparisons of the same wine or grape. I bought wine from one of the more celebrated Provence producers, Chateau d’Estoublon from my friend Leon Stolarski many years ago and decided to open the two I had left, 2005 and 2006. Made from Syrah, Mourvedre and Cabernet Sauvignon it is a big, powerful wine needing time. The 05 was a bit past its best but still showed dark fruits though mainly more autumnal, tertiary notes. The 06 was much more youthful and showed the real dark fruit profile, still with light tannins. Perhaps this was vintage, perhaps just the condition of two bottles but an interesting evening.
Three interesting reds. An article by Jamie Goode on the Itata region of Chile prompted me to try the Pais Granitico 2021 from A Los Vinateros Bravos. I like Pais as a grape, one of those which produces lighter, fresher wines mainly. Formerly it was made for cheap, local wines but producers have realised that it can make quality wines and this was one. A great wine for midweek with light, red fruits and nice freshness. The Morgon 2019 was from my favourite Beaujolais producer, Guy Breton. Classic Beaujolais red fruit but with added power, typical from the Morgon cru but not to be underrated as just typical, there was a lot of class. Best of all though was another Gamay, this time from Ochota Barrels, The Price Of Silence 2022. This was made after the sad, early death of Taras Ochota but shows the great work he put into his wines and the skill of his wife Amber and friends who continued his passion in the Basket range of Adelaide Hills. More fruity than the Morgon and unmistakably Australian in style but lovely depth and length, an excellent wine.
Finally, back to Jeff. I opened a bottle of Classe 2017. This was always one of my favourite bottles from any vintage of Coutelou. Mainly Grenache and Syrah with a 10% dash of Mourvedre, it has aged beautifully with the acidity calmed down and the fruit thriving, red and dark fruits with really smooth tannins supproting them still. On top form, fortunately I have a couple of bottles left.
Some difficult times on a personal level have made it difficult to focus on writing so apologies for the lack of articles recently.
amarchinthevines 