The tradition continues. Every year Jeff Coutelou publishes his review of the previous year and reports on the state of play for his Languedoc domaine. This year’s has a sombre air, including the colours, reflecting the parlous economics of wine production in the last few years. When a celebrated and successful domaine such as Jeff’s is operating in the red then we should know that the wine world is in trouble. More puritanical health advice, abstemious trends amongst the young and uncertainty in world finances all contribute, exacerbated by a teetotal world leader imposing tariffs on French wine. The consequences are worrying for French artisans (other nations too).

As usual Jeff begins his review of the 2025 vintage with reports on the weather. There was healthy rainfall over the 24-25 winter with 400mm refreshing the water table. A colder than usual March meant that vine growth was delayed, budding as late as March 31st. April and May were mild and damp encouraging vegetation growth without catching up the earlier delays. Flowering took place in favourable conditions, no damage from winds (coulure) but downy mildew appeared as mild and damp conditions are its ideal. Mid June brought warmth and a north wind, allowing Jeff to breathe more easily as this is good for the vine and combats mildiou. Summer brought two heatwaves and a storm providing 80mm of welcome rain so as harvest approached everything was a week in advance and a final heatwave brought it even further forward.

Vendanges began on August 26th and lasted three weeks interspersed by a few days of rain. Ripeness was optimal, the grapes healthy and quantities good despite the earlier losses from mildew. Fermentations were quick off the mark and everything is set for a really good vintage. Blending is happening in January and the following wines should be available.

Whites

• Xarello – unfortunately the 2nd vintage was badly hit by mildew and production down to a third of 2024 but what remains is good
• Clairette – looking good with real typicity
• TSCA – Terret, Servant, Clairette and Aramon Blanc from Segrairals vineyard, direct press
• Macabeu – two versions, one aged in concrete egg, the other in amphora
• Grenache Gris – some skin contact and aged in amphora
• Les Gris – Grenache Gris, Picpoul Gris and Riveyrenc Gris, all direct press
• OW – Muscat D’Alexandrie, skin contact
• Bibonade – made from Carignan and Terret Blanc with some Muscat à Petits Grains, ready in 2027.

Reds

• 5SO – pure Cinsault and will arrive in two versions, Formidable and Simple
• Ploutelou – (my recent favourite), Aramon and Cinsault
• Vin Des Amis – Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache
• OPPVDQ – whole bunch Syrah, light at 11% abv, a cuvée making its return
• Classe – Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault
• Carignan – a triumph this year, its last vintage!
• Rome – single vineyard complantation, mainly Cinsault (my favourite vineyard)

There will also be the 2024 cuvées of Macaboeuf and OW.

Jeff notes that he is thankful that his plans and work to adapt vines for climate chaos are working out. The heatwaves of 2025, even in a year with good rainfall, stressed traditional varieties and he is confident that the new plantings are more capable of flourishing under such pressure. In 10 years he has replanted 6 hectares (almost 50% of the vineyards) and now has more than 30 varieties in which he has great faith. To encourage bio diversity this has been combined with the planting of hedgerows and trees, the creation of an animal reserve and the planting of 15 varieties of olive trees (more than 750 new trees since 2007). Indeed Jeff has produced commercially an olive oil for the first time (previously it was reserved for restaurants).

Jeff concludes by wishing everyone a happy new year and a wish that somehow 2026 will bring happiness and … profitability. Let’s wish him the same!