Regular readers will know that Jeff Coutelou’s wines are my favourites, for personal and vinous reasons. The last article described some of those wines as well as others from my homeland. In the last few weeks I have enjoyed wines from other parts of France and the rest of the world.

Nicolas Carmarans has been the source of excellent examples from the emerging wine region of the Aveyron in the northern Languedoc / Central Massif. The two bottles I opened were both based on the Fer Servadou grape, most famously grown in the Marcillac AOC, further west towards Bordeaux. Good examples from there produce a peppery, light red with a nice fresh tannic grip. the bell pepper notes may come from its genetic connections to Cabernet Franc and Carmenere. Carmarans (curious tie in of names) is a former Parisian wine bar owner who turned to wine making in the Aveyron, not far from where the famous Laguiole cutlery is made. Altitude and cooler climate gives his wines a lovely freshness and lighter profile whilst still carrying serious flavour and complexity. The Mauvais Temps 19 and Maximus 18 were both showing the benefits of time in bottle, delicious with food and on their own.

Still in France, no idea where I purchased Céline 2020 from Charlotte et Cyril Delval. They are a young Belgian couple based in Poligny in the Jura and I know little more. Searches don’t seem to uncover many more wines which is a shame as this macerated Pinot Gris was very enjoyable. Light red from the grape’s pink skins it had nice tannins whilst still showing red fruit flavours. Only downside was the very heavy bottle. If anyone knows anymore about them, drop a comment. More Pinot Gris, along with Muscat, Klavner, Sylvaner, Riesling and Auxerrois – of course it’s Alsace. Achillee Pépin is a non vintage collaboration of friends who grow grapes organically and make a lovely fresh orange wine from their shared work, nice aromatics and fruit.

Another orange wine and, another example of why I like them based on aromatic grapes, this time a bottle from Spain. Casa Balaguer in the Valencia region makes Salicornio 23 from Moscatel grapes, a variety of Muscat. The grapes spend 6 months in old concrete tanks and produce a fragrant orange blossom aroma with lovely yellow fruit flavours and dusty tannins. One of the tastiest orange wines for some time. Commando G is a well known producer from the Sierra De Gredos mountains near Madrid. Their speciality is Garnacha and the 900m of altitude, as with Carmarans, mean that there is a freshness to the wine despite its proximity to a very hot climate. Bruja De Rozas 19 was very Pinot like in its aromas and flavours, almost meaty notes and saline too. Again bottle ageing proved a success, the tannins were soft and supportive. Lovely.

Still in the Iberian Peninsula but from Portugal two wines from Sem Igual which I tasted back at the Edinburgh tasting in Spring. I bought a few of thee white and red Vinho Verde and would like some more., they are right up my street. The white Vinho Verde 21 used Arinto and Azal grapes to produce a fresh, citrus and yellow fruit profile, simply delicious. The Tinto Vinho Verde 21 is made from Touriga Nacional and Baga grapes and is light, full of raspberry and red cherry fruit and freshness, lip smacking and yet full. These two have definitely made the shortlist for my wines of the year.

Finally to Australia and three excellent wines, two from my favourite region of the Adelaide Hills. Ochota Barrels was the project of Taras Ochota before his tragically early death and it is his wife Amber who has continued his fine work. Out Of My Head 23 (named after a song by a local Adelaide group), is pure Grenache and fizzes with energy. Very unlike the Commander G version it is lighter and fresher still. I sometimes read about wines described as having tension and this is definitely one. Acidity, fruit, tannins merge seamlessly but then one pops up its head for a time to dominate before settling back down. Quite something.

Jasper and Sophie Button run Commune Of Buttons in the Hills and I was fortunate to meet them back in 2018 when visiting the area for the first time. Influenced by the remarkable Anton van Klopper Jasper has quickly established himself as one of the country’s best winemakers. Gloria Pinot Noir 21 was everything I had hoped for. Generous but not over ripe fruit, aromatic and fresh – a classic example of top Pinot Noir, not much gets better in a bottle than that.

Talking of top Ozzie producers, Luke Lambert. I heard so much praise for his wines that I almost wanted to dislike them but I remember drinking one in Sydney in 2018 and it was terrific. Syrah 22 from the Yarra Valley was too. It’s Syrah not Shiraz, fresh, fruit but just ripe not overdone. Lovely acidity, opening up in glass from first glass to last a few hours later. My advice , don’t be daft like me, leave it for a couple of years no matter how delicious it is now.

My friend David Crossley has an excellent website called wideworldofwine and I hope that I have emulated his spirit and shown that I am not single minded in my wine drinking. There are fabulous wines being made around the globe from producers growing vines with care and attention to the environment. Support them please.