En francais

Could we finish before the weekend? Surely not.

On Thursday, September 31st, a shift in pace occurred, moving from the large production grapes at the sorting table to a significantly more time-consuming task. Amphorae have made a resurgence in the last decade for fermenting grapes. Jeff acquired a couple in 2017 and has since expanded his collection. Regrettably, one of the amphorae burst open last week, likely due to an unnoticed crack, as it was filled with water. The water serves to ensure thorough cleaning of the amphora. One of the new amphorae was still holding remnants of wine from the previous year, with the porous clay retaining some of the juice. Filling the amphora with water, replaced daily, aids in clearing any residue.

Jeff insists that the grapes entering the amphora be as pure as the clay itself. This meticulous process involves sorting or triage, and indeed, a trio of triages. Today’s selection included Grenache Gris, my favourite grape due to its distinctive colour, and Macabeu.

First, the grapes passed through the destemmer after being sorted from their cases. Working beneath the destemmer (érafleur), two of us meticulously removed any bits of stem or leaf that had slipped through. The large container (bac) was then subjected to another round of sorting, with the goal of retaining only pure grapes to place into the amphora. It’s a slow, methodical process. If you wonder why Jeff’s amphora wines might command a higher price, this labour-intensive process is a significant factor.

Meanwhile, the first Carignan of 2023 arrived in the cellars from the Peilhan vineyard, and the team worked tirelessly on two levels of the cellar, the Carignan upstairs and the amphora on the ground floor.

On Friday, another amphora needed filling, this time with Muscat D’Alexandrie, following the same exacting process. However, today saw fifteen dedicated pickers, and they worked relentlessly. After completing the Muscat from Peilhan, they transitioned to Segrairals and the parcel of Mourvedre.

This grape variety is complicated to grow. It has produced some of Jeff’s finest wines in recent years, yet it is notoriously finicky in the vineyard. Mourvedre does not tolerate moisture well and quickly deteriorates when wet. Additionally, the Mourvedre vines at the bottom of Segrairals face a dual threat, as the trees and shrubs in the area have provided shelter to the new wave of grape worms more than anywhere else in Jeff’s vineyards.

As a result, despite the overall health of most of the Mourvedre, it required more extensive sorting than any other grape during the vendanges. I will be posting an article detailing my approach to sorting bunches. Happily, the Mourvedre showed high nitrogen levels in the analysis, suggesting it will ferment well and can serve as a starter for slower tanks. By 3:30 pm, the Mourvedre was processed, and with the abundance of pickers, it was decided to tackle the final grape parcel to complete the harvest.

This last parcel consisted of Carignan from Rec D’Oulette, better known as Chemin De Pailhès. These grapes are destined for Flambadou wine, a regular standout in the Coutelou range. While the bunches and grapes weren’t particularly large, aside from a minor issue with oidium or powdery mildew, the sorting proceeded without problems, and another tank was mostly filled. We completed this task around 6:30 pm, commencing the standard procedure of thorough equipment cleaning. Though not glamorous, this step is essential to prevent spoiled wine. Cleaning is performed both at lunchtime and in the evening, typically when different grape selections begin.

The grapes are safely in, in decent quantities despite the drought. I will soon post an update on their condition, as they should yield excellent wines. Now, it’s up to Jeff to work his magic with what’s in his cellar.