amarchinthevines

Learning about wine, vines and vignerons whilst living in the Languedoc

2025 – Part 2

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The image above is of the last leaf to fall from the two vines I planted this year, one Regent and one Bacchus. With such a warm year they grew well, both are babies though and will strengthen with time. The warm weather also brought humidity and mildew however, something I realise will be an annual problem in the NE of England. It was fun to watch their progress this year and I look forward to seeing them grow in 2026 and beyond.

Part one of this recap of the year’s wines concentrated on those from around the world. This one will focus on European producers, the heart of my wine consumption. Naturally the wines of Jeff Coutelou make up the most important for me and the vendanges were a true joy this year. The most notable wine of Jeff’s this year was the new cuvée Sauve Qui Pleut, based on the Xarel-lo grape from the new plantation on the terrace of Peilhan vineyard. These vines thrived from the first day and the first wine shows lovely fresh minerality and texture, I can’t wait to see how the wine and vines will develop in the years to come.

France has always been, and always will be, my favourite wine producing country. Wines from Alsace and the Jura shone for me. Charlotte and Cyril Delval have a tiny amount of vines near Poligny and I imagine they shower care on the production they have. The result in the cuvée Céline 2020 was outstanding, Pinot Gris grapes macerated to produce a rosé colour from the natural skin taint of that grape. The maceration adds texture and flavour of red fruit, a lovely wine. Vignoble Du Rêveur is the project of Mathieu Deiss and Emmanuelle Milan, both from well known viticultural families. Rien Ne Bouge 2023 is made of Pinot Noir grapes which are macerated in Gewurztraminer grape juice for 15 days. The result is another light red wine with Pinot red fruit boosted by the spice and floral notes of the Gewurz, intriguing, enjoyable and characterful.

Iberia has become a growing source of excellent wines for me, the combination of indigenous grapes, ancient vineyards and variations in climate help to produce wines of great character in the hands of talented producers. For example, Ossian 2021 is made from Verdejo grapes produced by pre-phylloxera vines in the Segovia region north of Madrid. The wine was fascinating with its mix of viscous citrus, spice and nutty oxidative notes – a really great wine telling a story. Casa Balaguer’s Salicorno Moscatel 2024 was one of my favourite orange wines of the year. Moscatel / Muscat d’Alexandrie grapes grown just 50m from the Mediterranean near Alicante on sandy soils (like the Ossian). Skin contact for 5 days and then 6 months in tank and the result is a wine of depth, distinct notes of yellow fruits and, dare I say, oranges with a lovely saline, fresh finish. Another example of this grape making excellent orange wines. Celler Pardas ‘Sus Scrofa’ 2022 comes from Penedes, Catalonia made with the local Sumoll grape variety. Bright, juicy red fruits almost like a Beaujolais, a wine I’d enjoy at any time. Finally, from the Sousa region of Portugal, east from Porto, was a very drinkable, refreshing and mineral white Vinho Verde 2021 made by Sem Igual. I enjoyed a number of bottles through the year (and will over Christmas) and it’s white flower and citrus / apple profile really hits the spot.

2026 will bring a trip to Austria and hopefully a better familiarity with some of the excellent wines being made there. Claus Preisinger’s Kalkstein 2023 comes from the Neusiedlersee, Burgenland, south of Vienna. Preisinger produces quite a wide range but this Blaufränkisch is my favourite so far, pure cherry and dark fruits with freshness and very drinkable. Lovely, and it has whetted my appetite for the trip next June and the promise of another exciting wine year.

I hope you have enjoyed my selection of wines of 2025 and I would like to thank you for taking the trouble to read about them. Numbers have risen greatly this year and I am very appreciative, it makes the writing worthwhile. May I wish you a very happy and healthy New Year.

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Author: amarch34

I'm a recently retired (early!) teacher from County Durham in North east England. I am going to be spending most of the next year in the Languedoc leaarning about wines, vineyards and the people who care for both.

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