After each harvest it has become almost a tradition that before I head home Jeff Coutelou leads a taste through the wines which are being made from the work we did so recently. As it happened some of the team working with Clos Fantine (and harvest was still going on up in the hills) were coming on the 20th too, so Jeff combined the two events. We went on to taste some older wines from barrel as well as going to the solera to taste a number of the fabulous wines there.

Photos by Flora Rey

However, here are some thoughts in the 23 wines and how they are progressing. It’s always difficult to taste new wines, most were nearing the end of fermentation and most are wines which will be components in final bottlings rather than the end product itself. Rather than run through each of the twenty one wines these are my general thoughts.

It was interesting to hear Jeff say something I have been thinking for a couple of years. White wines are becoming some of the best, most interesting wines which he produces. Though he is best known for the excellent red cuvées such as Classe, Le Vin Des Amis and La Vigne Haute many of my favourite bottles have been white (and orange) wines such as OW, TSCC and Macabeu. I’d have assumed the warmer temperatures of recent years would not be good for white grapes but they have flourished under Jeff’s care. Perhaps the switch to grapes such as Macabeu, Clairette and Servant are helping, more suited to heat and with characteristics such as bitterness which prevent any tiredness in the grapes.

As I said TSCC 21 has been one of my favourite Coutelou wines recently, this time around Jeff has added Aramon Blanc to make TSAC (Terret Blanc, Servant, Aramon Blanc and Clairette), which is progressing nicely. Clairette found the hot vintage difficult and was picked early to maintain those bitter notes and both tanks were doing well, I preferred the one with the addition of Clairette Rose (yes, another new grape) with its liquorice notes. Two cuves of Macabeu are being made, both in concrete egg. The first, from Sainte Suzanne vineyard, had finished fermentation and was lovely with clean, direct white fruits and good grip. The other, from Peilhan, was still fermenting and had sherbety notes and a distinct orange, citrus note, interesting.

Another interesting wine was Grenache Gris made in amphora. It had grapefruit notes and was very clean but there were also distinct red fruit notes, perhaps from the distinctive pinkish skins – such a fascinating grape. The macerated Muscat d’Alexandrie (probably the future OW) was also worth a mention. Muscat always shows itself in a wine with its exotic, aromatic spiciness. It can have a sweetness, even in dry versions, but the maceration had extracted lots of juice and the skin contact adds texture and slight bitterness. Muscat grapes are usually quite big and have thick skins, the long maceration meant they had released the juice more than a traditional press.

Syrah found the 23 vintage difficult too, the vast majority was picked early and the grapes were very small with less juice than normal. Jeff’s decision to bring in those grapes has paid off in three separate tanks. Segrairals and La Garrigue Syrah was pressed after a short maceration and there is good, rich, red fruit. The whole bunch tank was still fermenting and there was a clear stalk influence with its freshness. No Vigne Haute in 23 though, unfortunately. Cinsault is another major crop for Jeff and it has done well, offering lots of attractive light fruit. I am sure it will be used for blending as well as, maybe, a 5SO. Grenache too has done well and brought lots of red fruit. Mourvedre, not always my favourite, has also brought bright fruit, promising.

Flower Power is one of my favourite Jeff wines with its expansive list of grapes from Font D’Oulette and the Peilhan terrace, over thirty varieties in total. Most surprising was the emergency pick. We harvested Grenache, Morastel, Aramon and Clairette on day one of the harvest as the vines were suffering. Yet, the wine shows no sign of stress and offers dark, rich fruit with good structure. Another example of Jeff’s insight and expertise.

My favourite wine of the whole tasting though was the Carignan from Rec D’Oulette/Chemin De Pailhès which goes to make Flambadou. There were already rich black and red fruit notes, structure and acidity, already very good and one I shall hopefully acquire when it is bottled.

The 23 vintage has tested Jeff sorely, the drought creating stress for him and the vines. He has had to plan carefully whilst also responding day to day to the needs of his vines. This tasting showed his skills as a winemaker faced with those climatic problems and the difficult fermentations that resulted. Whites and reds of promise, decent quantities, 2023 will not be a stellar vintage but there will be plenty of very good wines to enjoy.